Quality mullet is easy to recognize. Fresh mullet never smells fishy, and the eyes should appear bright and clear, almost alive. The gills should be clean and the skin moist and with tightly adhering, shiny scales. Fresh mullet flesh will give slightly when you press it with a finger, then spring back into shape. When choosing mullet steaks or fillets, whether they're fresh or previously frozen, look for moist, translucent (never dried out) flesh.